MARCH GARDEN CHORES

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1. If weeds have been a problem in your landscape beds, consider using an appropriate pre emergence herbicide. The timing is critical for good results....it needs to be in place before the weeds appear! One rule to remember: if you had weeds last year, expect a volunteer (bumper) crop in 2007.
2. Most pruning on rose bushes should be completed this month if you havenŐt done so already.
3. There are numerous fruit trees that will fit into most landscapes. Be sure to locate them away from active people use areas. If you are in a small setting, consider using a dwarf cultivar. Be sure to plant a pollinator if necessary. You should also note that deer are attracted to fruit trees. If you are in a "deer zone", it is recommended to erect some type of fence around each tree. Electric fences work well in orchards but are not practical for homeowners with a limited amount of space.
4. Begin designing a perennial border. There are 20 25 very popular herbaceous perennials that are (almost) fool proof, for all areas of North Carolina. Prepare the beds by deep tilling and incorporation of plenty of compost and plant later in the spring.
5. Want to improve the looks of your landscape by 100%? Many landscapes would look better if a 3 4" layer of organic mulch was applied around the shrubs. Then take a square blade shovel and put a professional edge on the bed. Be sure to edge at least 18 24" out from the outer edge (dripzone) of the shrubs
6. Think about adding some garden sculpture to the landscape. Any number of birdbaths, gazing globes, wildlife or human figurines and statues can be found in garden centers and antique shops. If you don't believe this is the latest "style", just thumb through a few gardening magazines.
7. Although a severe case of spring fever makes a gardener do strange things, one temptation to resist is to work in the soil if it's wet. Think twice before you work in wet soil. Compaction problems are unforgiving

What to Plant:

You may continue to plant larkspur, poppies, and dianthus. In mid-March plant coreopsis, cherry laurel and southern magnolia and vegetables such as: broccoli, beets, cauliflower, and cabbage. Containerized roses can be planted anytime between March and May. This is the beginning of the next best time to plant ornamental shrubs and trees.

What to Prune:

Prune deciduous spring flowering shrubs after flowers fade; quince, spirea and forsythia all flower on old growth. Do not prune shrubs that haven't bloomed yet such as azaleas and Indian hawthorns. Prune roses before bud break. Toward the end of the month, prune freeze-damaged oleanders in Coastal regions. Heavy pruning and rejuvenation pruning of summer blooming shrubs can be done now. On Rabbiteye blueberry bushes, prune to maintain 6-9 branches per plant.

What to Fertilize:

The winter has been cold and warm at times. Typically it is best to fertilize most ornamental plants around April 15. You may apply bulb fertilizers according to label directions after bulbs emerge. Wait on other ornamentals until April. If you have not already fertilized pecan, do so now at your earliest convenience.

Vegetable Garden Tips:

• When sowing seeds for transplants, leave about 1/4 inch of space between seeds to allow them to grow adequately and to discourage damping off fungus
• Erect trellises now for beans and cucumbers in Lower Piedmont and Costal Plain, if you are going to train them on trellises later in the season.
• If your garden space is limited, grow vegetables that are especially delicious and nutritious such as tomatoes and green, leafy vegetables. Also select those that bear for a long time, such as broccoli. Cucumbers and melons do well on a fence, if the fruit is supported by slings. And don't grow it, if your family won't eat it!
• When planning your vegetable garden, consider that leafy vegetables need at least six hours of sunlight to develop properly. Fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes, squash, eggplant and peppers need 10 hours of full sun.
• For easier watering of tomatoes and other large vegetables, plant a gallon can with holes punched in the bottom nearby. Watering through the can keeps water off the top of the ground and puts it near the roots where it's needed.
• For faster growth of vegetables in containers, use black plastic pots to warm the soil (81 degrees F on sunny days compared to 72 degrees for the same mixes in clay or white plastic pots).
• Delay organic mulching to allow soil to warm deeply, but act before weeds become established.
• Harden transplants of vegetables by decreasing water, fertilizer and growing temperatures. Transplant on a shady day in late afternoon or in early evening to reduce transplant shock. Water with a half strength fertilizer solution. For a few days after transplanting, protect the plants from wind and sun by placing a piece of newspaper or cardboard on their south sides or by covering with jugs, baskets or flower pots. Water the plants once or twice during the next week.
• When transplanting seedlings from peat pots be careful not to allow the rim of the peat pot to protrude above the soil level. If the rim is above the soil level, it will act as a wick and draw moisture away from the transplant. To prevent this from happening, break away the uppermost rim of the pot before planting and make sure the pot is completely covered with soil.
• Introducing children to gardening can be a rewarding experience for the entire family. Give them a small plot of their own with full sun, good soil, and drainage. It's a pleasant and productive way to spend time together.

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