It's Fall Gardening Time, David Barkley, Horticulture Agent
Click here to return to the Gardening page
Getting the garden soil tilled, fertilized and ready for planting of fall vegetables can be a rather tiresome job, especially with out-side temperatures above 90 degrees F. Undoubtedly, most people would find it more comfortable under an air conditioner, but maximum results from gardening efforts are not always achieved under the most ideal of working conditions.
Vegetables that have a 60 80 day maturity cycle like rutabaga, cabbage, snap beans, and lima beans need to be planted in early August. Shorter season vegetables like turnips and leafy greens can be delayed in seeding until about mid-September. Keep in mind that the planting dates can be as much as 10 20 days earlier in Western North Carolina and 7 14 days later in the East. This length of time is based on the assumption that there will be adequate moisture so the plants can germinate and grow with minimum delay.
Before the soil can be prepared for the fall garden, a decision has to be made on what to do with the remains of the spring garden. About the only spring crops worth leaving will be okra, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers; destroy everything else. The old vegetable plants should be put in the garbage and not the compost pile. Composting vegetable residue may be contribute to future insect and disease problems if the temperature of the compost does not get high enough (at least 160 degrees F) to destroy the insects and pathogens. It is probably preferable to destroy the old vegetable residue entirely.
The soil should be worked to a depth of 6 8 inches. Poor soil preparation will yield a poor stand and poor stands mean low yields. If the site is infested with weeds, be sure to allow sufficient time (about 10 14 days) for the weeds to decompose before final preparation, fertilization and planting are done. Many gardeners also choose to add more organic matter to improve the tilth of the soil during this preparation stage.
Getting a good stand of fall and winter vegetables in the heat of the summer is no easy task. The secret to producing healthy plants is in modifying the seeding area of the planting row. Once the seed furrow has been opened, take a garden hose or water-ing can and wet the soil 3 4 inches deep. Allow the water to soak in. Then, plant the seeds in the furrow. Always plant more seeds than you need. Next, cover the seeds with compost, potting soil or vermicu-lite instead of garden soil. A covering material such as compost will provide good aeration and eliminate soil crusting. It is important to add additional water to the soil as needed to keep the seedlings actively growing once they begin to emerge. The plants should be thinned to the proper stand after they are 1 2 inches tall.
High quality vegetables and adequate soil moisture go hand in hand. Failure to provide sufficient water (1 inch or more per week) will put stress on the plants and reduce yields. It is drought, not heat, that damages fall vegetables. Therefore, every gardener should water the fall garden regularly during periods of limited rainfall. To further combat moisture stress, use an organic mulch such as straw, leaves or compost. Mulches not only conserve moisture; they help reduce soil tempera-tures and check weed growth.
It is not uncommon for insects and diseases to get their share of the fall garden. Most of the problems with insects and diseases are due to a buildup in their populations from spring through summer. There is hope in keeping these pests at tolerable levels if a few strategies are followed. First, review pertinent literature on insects and diseases in order to distinguish the difference between problem and nonproblem situations. Second, strive to keep the fall vegetables healthy and actively growing. Healthy plants are less susceptible to insects and diseases. Third, check the vegetable plants frequently for signs of insects and disease damage. When sufficient damage is detected, use an approved pesticide.
True, fall gardening will have a few ups and downs during the growing season. However, the rewards of fresh vegetables will make it all worthwhile at harvest time. All the heat and sweat will be forgotten when the food is put on the table.
Garden Chores for September:
- Some areas are having an excellent year for caterpillars, butterflies and moths. If you lose foliage from a deciduous tree this time of the year, it will not hurt the tree. The leaves have already produced plenty of food for the tree and they would fall anyway in another month. The main reason to kill these fall caterpillars would be to keep the droppings off the sidewalk or out of the pool. Any pesticide labeled for caterpillars would work. Be sure to use one labeled for fruits or nuts if you plan to spray something edible. By the way, the ones that make webs this time of the year are commonly called fall webworms. Tent caterpillars will show up in the spring and their nests are normally in the forks of the tree. Fall webworms will make nests on the ends of the limb. Bagworms have individual protective bags instead of webs. Speaking of bagworms, it is too late to control them with a pesticide. The good news is that the eggs will be laid inside the bag and hand- picking them will work from now until next June.
- Rising energy costs have some of us considering cost-saving measures, even when it comes to our lawns. Do you have more lawn than you need? Many urban landscapes are quite small, but there still are plenty of homes with huge expanses of grass. It is not difficult to convert a lawn to a forested area, although you may have to comply with certain zoning requirements. A forested area requires less energy to maintain.
- The high price of gas will likely cause the cost of produce to rise at the grocery store. Support local growers by purchasing at farmers markets or, better yet, plan to put in a fall garden, if you have not already. Plant cool-weather plants such as lettuce, broccoli, cabbage, collards, spinach and other greens now, along with root crops such as carrots, radishes, beets, onions and garlic. Turnips for roots need to be planted now. Turnips for greens can be planted until September 20. Season extenders such as cold frames or row covers can provide the necessary protection to help you produce well into the late fall or early winter.
- Consider growing some edible crops in your landscape. Choices for edible landscaping include blueberries, figs and grapes.
- Compost is not only good for your garden but making and using it is good for your community . Any leaves, grass clippings or pruning that go into the pile don't end up being collected by cities. Make a simple compost pile by incorporating a small amount of garden soil and a little fertilizer to a pile of leaves. Next spring you will have a supply of leaf mold to improve the structure of your garden soil. To achieve faster decomposition of the compost pile, turn the pile over every month or so during the growing season. For more detailed information on composting go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/pdf/ag-467.pdf.
- With the threat of heavy winds during hurricane season or the ice storms that may occur this winter, it is a good idea to check your trees for any potential hazards. Go to the International Society of Arboriculture Web site to learn how to identify defects within the tree that can make them unsafe. http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/hazards.aspx
Spring Bulbs, Peonies, Evergreens
- Garden centers will soon start to display wonderful varieties of spring bulbs. Now is the time to buy to get the best selections, but hold off on planting until the temperature has cooled off. Bulbs can be stored in a cool, dry location to await planting. Consider trying some of the more unique bulbs such as frittilaria, colchicum, chionodoxa (Glory of the Snow), the various alliums, scilla or lycoris.
- Dig and divide peonies, they can be planted in early fall but make sure the crowns are buried only 1 to 2 inches below ground level. Deeper planting keeps the plants from blooming.
- When landscaping for energy efficiency, choose evergreens for the north and northwest side of the house where they will block winter winds without limiting winter sun. Block early morning and late afternoon summer sun by planting deciduous trees to the east and west of the house, including the southeast and southwest corners.
Back to the top